Working Cats

We cannot always guarantee that working cats will get along with resident cats and whether or not they get along can depend on the individual cat. But, there are two main ways to minimize aggression within any group of cats: spaying and neutering (which is already taken care of for our working cats), and providing ample food. In addition, a reliable source of food will motivate your working cats to stay on your property, and not wander off in search of greener pastures.

We recommend having more than one working cat so that they have companionship but it is not required.

There are some working cats that do become semi-tame, some to the point where they will rub up against their owners and accept an occasional head scratch. This is more likely to happen as working cats settle in to their new space, and could even happen years later. There are others that may always prefer their own space.

We ask that you make every effort to take your cats with you if you have to move. This could be a difficult transition for your cats, so another approach would be to ask the new property owners to see if they would be willing to care for your cats. As a last resort please contact us and we will work with you to find your cats a new home.

Provide an enclosure for your working cat to live in for at least four weeks before allowing them to roam. Ideally, this enclosure will be the same or close to the place where their permanent shelter will be – this allows the cat to get to know where their food, water, and shelter are, and generally adjust to the new environment. It also gives them a chance to get used to you and understand that you are their caretaker.    

 This enclosure must be escape-proof. You should be able to access it safely to replenish food, water, and clean the litter box. It needs to be spacious enough for the cat to stay in the back, within their hiding spot, while you perform these daily chores.  A large dog kennel or crate can be used, or a tack room, garage, or other space as long as there are no holes through which the cat can escape or use to hide in walls, etc.

The space should include:

• A place to hide (for example, a cardboard box with a hole cut in it as a door, or a piece of plywood leaned against a wall) with bedding provided
• Bedding ( blankets, towels, or straw)
• A litter box (this can be removed after the acclimation period if you choose)
• Food and water daily
• Proper ventilation and protection from heat or cold

 If you would like some examples of acclimation spaces, please reach out to us at WorkingCats@thehumanesociety.org. 

After the four-week adjustment period, prepare to let your cat out.  

Leave an outdoor light on at night during the final two days of the acclimation period, and for at least the first week after you release the cat. Release your cat in the morning on a dry, sunny day when it’s not too busy or noisy. If you release your cat at night, they could get lost. Rain washes off cats’ scent trails and may make it difficult for them to find their way home after being outside for the first time exploring your, and possibly neighboring, property. 

Working cats need a safe and warm shelter that is inaccessible to predators, such as coyotes and loose dogs. They feel most secure off the floor where they can jump up to a comfortable resting area. The shelter should provide protection from the elements, a place to hide out of sight, and a soft place to sleep. Examples of suitable shelters include: 

• A doghouse or some other kind of box that contains warm bedding and is placed off the ground on a large shelf or loft platform in a barn, garage, or shed. 

• A small outdoor “cat house” attached to the side of a building several feet above the ground. 

• A large shelf up off the ground (ideally, with some boards or a piece of plywood nailed to the rafters) in the back of a shed, or in the corner of a garage where your cats have cover and warm bedding.  

Secure Access:  If your cat’s shelter is inside a closed building, either install a cat door, or plan on leaving the door open so the cat(s) can get inside whenever they want.   

Working cats need an ongoing source of food and water. It is not true that cats must be hungry in order to hunt. In fact, chronically hungry cats can’t hunt very well, and they may pack up and leave in search of an adequate food source in someone else’s barn or garage if you don’t give them enough food to keep them healthy and happy. At a minimum, you should consistently provide dry food.  

It is a good idea, but not absolutely essential to re-vaccinate your cats every three years.  Depending on how wild they are, you may have to trap them in order to take them to a vet.  Even without re-vaccinations, they should be able to live long, healthy lives with good shelter and nutrition.

Flea treatment 

Depending on how handleable the cat is, you might be able to apply a normal flea treatment product to your working cat. If they are too skittish to pick up, you can mix an oral flea treatment, with some canned cat food once a month during the flea season (April through November). There are also various oral/chewable treatments that you can purchase through your vet. 

Most working cats will seek a source of food, water, and secure shelter, so in many cases your cats will not go very far and will come back eventually. If they do leave your property permanently, they will likely relocate to a nearby property. We have heard stories about lost barn cats that showed up months after disappearing. Somehow, they were able to find enough resources to survive. In the end, these resilient creatures make their own decisions about where to live. See our https://www.thehumanesociety.org/lost-my-pet/  for steps to take if your cat goes missing.  

1. Offer food and water in or as close as possible to the acclimation spaces. It is important to do this for at least a month and longer, if possible, as it can take some cats quite a long time to find their way back.   
2. Place the food and water bowls on a sheet of plywood and sprinkle flour on it each night and check for cat tracks. If you see cat tracks, it may mean that your cat is hiding somewhere close.
3. Leave a light on at night in or near the acclimation facility to help your missing cat navigate back home. 

If there are other animals on the property, it’s important to give them time to adjust to one another. Given time and space, cats will slowly adjust and get used to other animals. If there are other cats on the property, let them find their place amongst each other on their own. The occasional tiff or noise is usually normal behavior and is just their way of working out their social order. 

• Place the trap near where they are normally fed. 
• Remove access to food other than what is in the trap. 
• Put some food near the entrance and gradually move it further into the trap each day. 
• Be sure to cover the trap with a towel or blanket to make it feel secure.